Can musicians legally sign your instruments? Please answer!?
I'm going to see a band next month, Papa Roach, with backstage tickets, allowing me to get one thing of my choice signed by all three bands. I heard from a friend who went to some concert that the musicians aren't allowed to sign instruments. Is this true, because I really want my bass signed!
Helena x
Of course they can sign your instrument. There is no law against anything like that. They may have a contract with their recording company that limits what they can sign, but no law.
If you have won backstage passes that allow you to bring one thing to be signed, then you will get that one item signed.
Stereo vintage Why do Conservatives Stereo type me Conservative because I know the Vintage Harley?
I slam Bush every chance I get and one member (BEV) thinks I should be a conservative because I know the Old Harley Motorcycle and how they work.
I started building pans from baskets before after market Harley parts were available. I can say this, I had meaningful employment under Democrats where I could buy more parts for my bikes and when Bush was in Dad and son I could not spend as much on my bikes.
I own a vintage automobile, and buying parts has been no different, regardless of who is President.
Good luck, and thanks for preserving the old Harleys.
Vintage saba multiplex shortwave/stereo 400 automatic?
I HAVE A 1961 SABA MULTIPLEX 400 AUTOMATIC STEREO/SHORTWAVE RADIO,DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY INFO ON THIS RADIO LIKE VALUE AND IF JFK OWNED ONE LIKE THIS,OR IF ANYONE HAS A LINK I COULD TRY TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THIS UNUSUAL RADIO!!!!!!!!!
The freshness of fish can be measured by placing fish between the plates of a capacitor and measuring the capacitance. How does this work?
When fish is placed within the plates of capacitor (having known dielectic medium (say air) then upon deterioration the most significant, and earliest changing, parameter is the loss of water due to evaporation.
As water entails the highest dielectric constant, amongst all liquids+gases - being ideal to minutest relative changes, there is a prominent overlapping of dielectric constant gradient from the boundaries of fish surface isotropically.
Water, being dipolar, is easily affected by electric field within capacitor. In such a variable state, if capacitor is made to (used) observe the shape of relected pulse from the surface boundary of fish then the changing capacitance would give visual effect of deteriorating fish with time.
One can estimate the degree to which deteriration has taken place by observing pulse pattern in-turn induced by change in Capacitance owing to dielectric constant variation.
NY Amp Show '10 - Black Cat Pedals Custom MKI Americano, Professional MKII & Bass Octave Fuzz Pedals
No items matching your keywords were found.
Account limit of 2140 requests per hour exceeded.
No items matching your keywords were found.
Why won't my homemade capacitor work!?
I built it with 3 cards ( the ones used to play go fish ) and 2 pieces of aluminium.They are in this order card, foil, card, foil, and card.They are sandwitched together and the foil isn't glued it's taped with duct tape.I connected a wire to each piece of foil and then to a battery.Left it there for 2 min. and took the battery off .WITHOUT TOUCHING the wires.THEN....I tuched the wires without the bat. and didn't feel anything.What's wrong?At this point anything will help --)---(
In theory your description should work. Here are a couple possibilities:
1) The "plates" are too small to achieve a charge that you'll feel.
2) The duct tape is conductive and shorting out the foil plates.
Try using sheets of newspaper or saran-wrap as the dielectric between large pieces of aluminum foil. Lay sheets of saran-wrap, foil, saran-wrap, and foil on top of one another in that order. Then roll up the package. See photo at link below.
Capacitors Parts How to test a fridge parts, fridge isn't cooling?
I have a fridge (bottom freezer) that has stopped cooling. The light is still on, the digital controls are out, and there's no cooling on the top or bottom.
I'm told it is likely one of a few things:
# The compressor
# The Thermostat
# The overload, relay, or capacitor
# The defrost timer
# The condenser fan motor
How do I test these things? I have a multimeter, lots of tools, and I've done a lot of work on other appliances, but not fridges.
You have a board out if your digital control is blank AND it is not cooling. (with some failures and brands you can have a blank control but it still works).
If you have a digital control you do not even have a thermostat, it is electronic using thermistors.
Way too little information. You didn't even give the brand. i.e. GE has two boards and for them the one you see is only a temperature control board, the motherboard is in the back. With whirlpool and frigidaire they have a single board as do some Amanas. Some Amana and Maytags had a separate power board.
If the control is blank likely either the board is fried or you lost the transformer that powers it. It is possible the power isn't getting there for some reason but that is not as likely.
First you need to find the tech sheet they tuck in the units. Can't tell you where because different brands put them in different places and the location can very with model and age too.
If you can bring up your model number someplace like SearPartsDirect sometimes it shows the location of the tech sheet, likely on the cabinet picture or maybe with the control.
Without specialized equipment and/or a very good knowledge of the particular unit you can not really "diagnose" boards. Mainly you check power in and power out of them. If it is wrong it is bad.
I will smell them first. A burnt board or component on a board is not hard to detect. You can pull them and visually inspect them for burnt components as well. It is a little easier in your case if it is just dead as opposed to some function not working. In the latter case it can be that a separate component shorted out and took out the board. When that happens you risk losing a new board if the bad component is not replaced also.
But as I said, that is less likely in your case with it out totally. If everything is on a single board, I would verify it has power to it and replace the board.
As a tech I kept used rebuilt boards for testing. That was the simplest way. Replace it to test. No real need to diagnose further.
With electronics problems as seems your case it is really beyond the ability of most to do it easily. Even most techs don't understand the electronics well, but don't really need to. We replace parts until it works. lol.
Since boards, once installed, can't be returned you run the risk of buying unneeded parts that eventually cost you more than a repair call. Or you risk blowing a new board. This is more like computer work than technical or mechanical work. (they are computer boards!)